- #SPRINT LAYOUT CONNECT UPPER AND LOWER HOW TO#
- #SPRINT LAYOUT CONNECT UPPER AND LOWER INSTALL#
- #SPRINT LAYOUT CONNECT UPPER AND LOWER PLUS#
The spacer should be 1″ thick at the thickest part. To achieve this, use a miter saw set to an 8.5 degree bevel. We need to cut eight 8.5 degree spacers to prevent our cabinet from being angled. The half-profile of 80/20 is sitting at the same 91.5 degree angle as the van wall. Continue adding sections of the headliner, cutting out the eight 1.5″ holes in the sidewalls and five 1.5″ holes overhead as you go. The headliner is flexible, so we simply bent it down to locate the plusnut, then marked and drilled in the same fashion as described above. You could cut with a box knife if you are careful.ĭon’t forget to cut the headliner out for the plusnuts directly above you. The foam cutter does not cut completely through the headliner, it just cuts the treads of the fabric. We used a foam cutter to cut the threads of the headliner. This process is shown in the video linked at the bottom of this article at about the 6 minute mark. If you’re off horizontally, you can always slide the T-nut over. When you drill through the headliner, be sure it is centered on the T-nut, as vertical alignment is critical. Now you can use an awl to poke a hole in the headliner and confirm you’re centered on the T-nut. With the rear section in place, use a long straight-edge and line up the visible section of the 80/20 with the center of the slot and align it with the blue painter’s tape. If you are using the factory headliner, you may now begin reinstallation (You are done insulating, right?) The Mercedes headliner goes back in starting with the rear section.
#SPRINT LAYOUT CONNECT UPPER AND LOWER INSTALL#
Our plusnuts came with a simple install tool, but you can also use a plusnut install tool.
#SPRINT LAYOUT CONNECT UPPER AND LOWER PLUS#
We used five roof supports, and thus five total plus nuts. As shown in the photo, we used a hole to the outside of the second corrugation in the roof. The hole needs to be enlarged with a drill to install the 5/16-18 bulbed plusnut. We used some existing holes in the ceiling of the van for the upper cabinet mount. (See our YouTube video for more detail.) Preparing the Upper Support Be sure to put them below headliner-level so you can see them with the headliner in place. We put a piece of blue painter’s tape on the wall of the van to mark the horizontal locations of the roll-in T-nuts. Spread them out so the load on the cabinet is distributed evenly onto the profile. You can pop these in without having to slide them from the ends of the T-slot. We use roll-in T-nuts because the bolt will be at an 8.5 degree angle to the profile, and it can roll in the channel to accommodate the angle. Preparing the Lower Support Railīy installing roll-in T-nutsin the slot, we provide threads for the lower part of the cabinet. (Refer to the 3D model further down in this article for detail.) The bolts thread into the T-nuts from the backside. Using eight 5/16″ bolts with some thread-lock, fasten the aluminum profile to the van wall. Be sure to use a stop collarso you don’t drill through the side of the van! Paint the holes you drilled to prevent rust. Drill through the aluminum and through the van wall. Mask off the area to prevent drill shavings from falling into the cavities of the van, which can eventually form rust. Be sure you place the T-nuts where you can gain access from the wall cavity. We will be bolting through the van wall into this structure from the backside. Slide eight T-nuts into the track ours are positioned approximately every 17-1/2 inches. Position it vertically so it aligns with the bottom of the upper wall cavity. This provides a “track” to serve as the lower wall mount of the cabinet. We will begin by bolting a length of 80/20 1575-series (we will refer to this as the “half profile”) to the wall of the van. Getting Started – Mounting the Lower Attachment Rail The video is linked near the bottom of this article.
#SPRINT LAYOUT CONNECT UPPER AND LOWER HOW TO#